Choosing the Correct Fabric for Machine Embroidery

When people ask,

"What fabric should I use?"

they're actually asking the wrong question.

A better question is:

"What type of fabric does THIS design need?"

The embroidery design should always influence your fabric choice—not the other way around.

Today we're going to simplify what can seem like an impossible subject. There are literally thousands of fabrics available around the world, but from an embroidery point of view they all behave in surprisingly similar ways.

Instead of learning every fabric individually, learn how fabrics behave.

Once you understand that, you'll be able to choose the correct fabric for almost any embroidery design.

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Think Like an Embroiderer

Forget names like:

• Gabardine
• Poplin
• Oxford
• Twill
• Linen Blend
• Jersey Knit

Instead ask yourself three questions.

Is it Stable or Stretchy?

This is probably the most important question.

A woven cotton hardly stretches.

A T-shirt can stretch in every direction.

Stretch changes everything.

If the fabric moves while being stitched, the embroidery moves with it.

That is why stretchy fabrics usually require extra stabilization and different embroidery designs than firm woven fabrics.

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Is it Thin or Thick?

A handkerchief behaves very differently from denim.

Thin fabrics needs light stitch designs, with not too heavy fill OR alternatively more stabilizer.

Heavy fabrics support embroidery better but may need stronger needles and different stabilizers.

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Is the Surface Smooth or Fluffy?

Think of:

Smooth cotton

vs

Towel fabric

Fleece

Sherpa

Velvet

Minky

Long fibers can hide stitches.

Sometimes the embroidery itself is perfect—but disappears because it sinks into the fabric.

That is why toppers are often used on fluffy fabrics.

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Already you've reduced thousands of fabrics into only three characteristics.

• Stable vs Stretchy
• Thin vs Thick
• Smooth vs Textured

Now choosing fabric becomes much easier.

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The Four Main Fabric Families

Instead of memorizing hundreds of fabric names, think in families.

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1. Stable Woven Fabrics

Examples include

• Quilting cotton
• Canvas
• Denim
• Linen
• Twill
• Cotton sheeting

Characteristics

✔ Very little stretch

✔ Easy to hoop

✔ Usually beginner friendly

These fabrics are ideal for

• Quilt blocks
• Kitchen towels
• Tote bags
• Pillow covers
• Table runners
• Home décor

Most embroidery designs work beautifully on stable woven fabrics.

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2. Stretch Fabrics

Examples

• T-shirts
• Jersey
• Rib knit
• Interlock
• Sweatshirt fleece

Characteristics

✔ Stretch in one or more directions

✔ Can distort easily

✔ Need good stabilization

Perfect for

• Clothing
• Baby garments
• Sweatshirts

These fabrics require more care because the embroidery has to resist the stretching of the garment.

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3. Thick or Heavy Fabrics

Examples

• Denim
• Duck canvas
• Upholstery fabrics
• Heavy jackets

Characteristics

✔ Strong support

✔ Minimal distortion

✔ Can handle dense embroidery

Excellent for

• Jackets
• Bags
• Aprons
• Outdoor items

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4. High-Pile or Textured Fabrics

Examples

• Towels
• Fleece
• Minky
• Sherpa
• Velvet

Characteristics

✔ Fibers stand up

✔ Stitches disappear into the pile

✔ Usually need water-soluble topping

These fabrics require embroidery that sits proudly above the surface.

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Choosing Fabric From the Design

Now let's reverse the process.

Imagine you've just purchased a new embroidery design.

How do you know where it belongs?

The answer is hidden in the design itself.

Even if you can't see the underlay or know how the design was digitized, the visible stitches tell you a lot.

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Large Areas of Solid Fill

Imagine a flower with large satin-filled petals.

That design is fairly dense.

Dense embroidery likes stable fabrics.

Good choices

✔ Cotton

✔ Linen

✔ Canvas

✔ Denim

Poor choices

✘ Lightweight T-shirts

✘ Thin jerseys

✘ Soft stretchy knits

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Lots of Light Running Stitches

Think of delicate redwork.

These designs place very little stress on fabric.

They can work beautifully on lighter fabrics.

Ideal for

• Handkerchiefs
• Napkins
• Baby blankets
• Lightweight cottons

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Large Satin Letters

Wide satin stitches create tension across the fabric.

The wider the satin stitch...

...the more the fabric wants to pull inward.

Stable fabrics produce cleaner results.

Stretch fabrics often show puckering unless properly stabilized.

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Lace Designs

Freestanding lace isn't intended for fabric at all.

The stabilizer becomes the temporary fabric until the lace is washed free.

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Appliqué

Since much of the design is covered with fabric, stitch density is usually lower.

Appliqué is an excellent choice for garments because it reduces stiffness.

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Quilt Blocks

Most quilt designs assume stable quilting cotton.

That makes fabric selection very straightforward.

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Warning Signs

Sometimes the design itself tells you what NOT to use.

Avoid very stretchy fabrics if your design has

• Huge filled areas
• Large satin borders
• Extremely dense embroidery
• Heavy layering

These designs may stitch beautifully...

...but only on stable fabrics.

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When You Want to Embroider on a T-Shirt

Sometimes we don't get to choose the fabric.

The garment has already been chosen.

Now we adapt the embroidery.

Instead of using a dense filled design, choose

✔ Lighter stitch counts

✔ More open designs

✔ Appliqué

✔ Sketch embroidery

✔ Bean stitch designs

These place far less stress on the garment.

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The Golden Rule

A simple way to remember all of this is:

The heavier and denser the embroidery, the more stable the fabric should be.

and

The softer or stretchier the fabric, the lighter and more open the embroidery should become.

If you remember only those two rules, you'll avoid most embroidery problems before your machine even starts stitching.